Mont Blanc Ascents

Climbing Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc is the highest summit in western Europe. At 4810m it towers over the Alps providing spectacular views of the great mountains of Europe; the Eiger, Matterhorn and Monte Rosa which lie to the east, and the Italian Alps to the south.

One of the great challenges of the Alps, the ascent of Mont Blanc requires endurance, skill and logistics as well as the need for acclimatisation.

By gradually increasing the heights reached, during the build up to the ascent, our one week courses develops altitude fitness, as well as covering all the skills and techniques required in order to give mountaineers the best preparation for the climb.

Mountaineers need not be technically experienced as all of this is taught during the week, but the ascent of Mont Blanc is very demanding and mountaineers should be of a very good level of fitness, capable of a good full days hill walking in the UK.

Courses run from Thursday to Thursday

Thursday Start Day.

As the Gouter Hut can become very busy during the summer months we have planned our Mont Blanc Ascent weeks to avoid the summers busiest period and our weekly start day of Thursday means that climbers will be spending Tuesday evening at the Gouter Hut; one of the quiestest evenings of the week. This will allow climbers a more peaceful nights stay prior to ascending the summit Tuesday morning.

Mont Blanc dates: Summer 2008 - places left

Week 8: 28th August to 4th September 08 - 6 places left
Week 9: 4th to 11th September 08 - 5 places
We are also taking bookings for Summer 2009.

Mont Blanc dates: Summer 2009 - places left

Week 1:11th to 18th June 09 - 8 places
Week 2: 18th to 25th June 09 - 8 places
Week 3: 25th June to 2nd July 09 - 8 places
Week 4: 2nd to 9th July 09 - 3 places
Week 5: 9th to 16th July 09 - 4 places
Week 6: 16th to 23rd July 09 - 6 places
Week 7: 23rd to 30th July 09 - 8 places
Week 8: 27th August to 3rd September 09 - FULL
Week 9: 3rd to 10th September 09 - 8 places

Prices:

The price for one week is £1375.00/1895euros.
For details of what the price includes, please see Further Information.
Private Groups. If you cannot make any of our scheduled dates, or would prefer to do a private booking, please contact us to discuss dates and prices.

Itinerary:

Day One: Arrival at Chalet McNab, Argentiere (1240m)
Day Two: Mer de Glace (1909m)
Day Three: Start of a three day trek, Albert Premier (2707m)
Day Four: Petite Fourche, (3520m)
Day Five: Aig du Tour (3542m)
Day Six: First stage of the Mont Blanc ascent
Day Seven: Mont Blanc (4807m)

Before attempting to climb Mont Blanc it is extremely important that climbers have spent time during the days leading up to their attempt, walking and climbing at altitude. This itinerary has been designed so that over the week there is a gradual increase in the heights reached as well as the skills and endurance required in order to give mountaineers the best preparation possible for the climb.

The following itinerary is flexible and may be changed to make best use of the conditions. Guiding is at a ratio of 1:4 during the build up and 1:2 during the ascent of Mont Blanc.

Day One - Arrival and introduction meeting.

Arrival at Chalet McNab where you'll be made to feel at home. Your Guide will come round in the evening and talk to you about the week ahead, your equipment and answer any questions before you sit down to an excellent 3 course meal.

Day Two - Mer de Glace, 1909m.

After breakfast there will be time to rent or buying any kit you need for the week.
After this, we'll take the old rack and pinion railway up through the woods from Chamonix to the edge of the Mer de Glace (1909m). This is the glacier where Frankenstein hid in Mary Shelley's novel. All around are granite spires and the glacier flows chaotically through the middle. This is the start of your acclimatisation program. If you haven't used crampons or an ice axe before, this is your introduction. We'll spend some time getting used to walking in crampons and swinging an ice axe. Afterwards we'll weave our way through the crevasses to find a picnic spot with a view. If you're feeling brave there'll be an opportunity to climb some steep ice. Then we return to Chamonix on the railway and on to the chalet for dinner and a relaxing evening.

Day Three - Start of 3 day trek, Albert Premier, 2707m.

The start of our three day trek. We'll spend two nights in high mountain huts one of them in Switzerland. It's a wonderful trip and good acclimatisation and training. We'll set off after a leisurely start in the morning, with time to sort out your gear and make any equiment changes you made need. Then we'll take the cable car from Le Tour to Col de Balme (2130m). From here we'll walk along side the Glacier de Tour for two hours to a high mountain refuge the Albert Premier 2707m.

Alpine refuges are fantastic places. There's a sunny terrace to enjoy a beer and the view, espresso coffee and fresh baked pie. After a rest you'll have the opportunity to go out on the glacier. If you like, we can go down into the bowls of a crevasse or walk under the spectacular Aig du Chardonnet. Or if you prefer you can stay on the terrace and soak up the sun. That evening we'll have earned our three course meal in the refuge. Sleeping is in dormitories with blankets and pillows provided.

Plateau du Trient as seen from the Trient Hut.

Day Four - Petite Fourche, 3520m

We're up bright and early at five am. As the sun comes up we'll be crunching across the glacier in our crampons. Our aim for the day is to climb the Petite Fourche (3520m) from where we're hoping for a view all the way to the Matterhorn. The ascent is mostly walking with some scrambling on to the summit. No doubt you'll be feeling the altitude so we'll take it slow and steady with lots of photo opportunities. From the summit we abseil down an ice cliff into Switzerland. After the excitement's over we've got a gentle walk to the Trient refuge 3170m and lunch on the terrace. After a siesta there'll be the chance for a little afternoon activity for those who wish to learn crevasse rescue or experience some more steep ice.

Crossing the plateau du Trient on the way to climb the Aiguille du Tour.

Day Five - Aig du Tour, 3542m

This morning is another early start with the aim being to climb the Aig du Tour (3542m). Again, it's mostly walking on snow with a rocky scramble to its precarious summit. Our descent takes us over a col and back into France. We descend back to Argentiere for a late lunch, a relaxing afternoon and dinner at the chalet.

Day Six - First stage of the Mont Blanc ascent - Gouter refuge 3817m/Cosmique hut 3600m/Tete Rousse.

So all the training is over and we're ready for the ascent of Mont Blanc. We'll now be joined by more guides to give us the best chance of success.
The route we choose will depend on the conditions and your preferences. Normally we'll set off from Les Houches, a short drive down the valley where we'll take a cable car then a train to a height of 2077m. From here we'll walk to either the Tete Rousse or the Gouter Hut (3817m) where we'll spend most of the night. Those going via the Cosmique start later in the day with a shorter first hike from the Aiguille du Midi.

Day Seven - The Big Day! Mont Blanc 4807m.

Both routes require a very early start, with all the climbing on snow. the route from the Tete Rousse and the Gouter is not technical, although the final ridge is exposed, but the route from the Cosmique rquires some technial ice climbing and although less exposed is slightly more demanding. As the air gets thinner, the going gets harder so we'll keep our pace slow and steady and with luck we'll be on the summit just after dawn and enjoying those spectacular views.

We can go down the same way or by another route and would hope to be in the valley mid to late afternoon.

The final evening is time to reflect on the adventures of the week and celebrate over dinner at the chalet.

Day Eight - Back to the "real world."

Transfers to Geneva are available on request. .

Mont Blanc ascents success rate.

Mont Blanc Ascents 2005 - 85% success rate During the Summer of 2005 we ran 7 weeks of Mont Blanc and 3 private groups with a total of 67 people who came to ascend Mont Blanc. Of these 67 people, 57 made it to the top of Mont Blanc. Of the 10 who didn't make it to the top, 4 suffered from altitude sickness or lack of fitness, 2 had injuries, 1 had to leave early, 3 had bad weather. Two of the 4 who lacked sufficient fitness ascended the Grand Paradiso in Italy instead.

Mont Blanc Ascents, 2006 - 70% success rate. During the summer of 2006 we ran 8 weeks of Mont Blanc ascents with a total of 68 people. Of these 68, 54 reached the summit of Mont Blanc. Of the 14 who didn't make it, 11 of them had bad weather in early June (which is not usual) although 4 of these 11 stayed an extra day (their guide was happy to postpone free of charge) and reached the Mont Blanc Tacul. 3 of the 14 who did not reach the summit suffered from lack of fitness/altitude problems.

Mont Blanc Ascents, 2007 - 56% success rate. We ran 8 weeks of Mont Blanc ascents during the summer of 2007. Unfortunately the weather during the summer of 2007 was not good and none of the Mont Blanc companies in the valley had a good sucess rate. The bad weather made attempting to summit dangerous and the Gouter Hut was often closed due to high winds.
We offer an alternative summit.
Unlike many of the other companies we do offer an alternative summit to the Mont Blanc ascent and all of those clients who were unable to attempt Mont Blanc due to weather conditions were taken to Italy to climb the Gran Paradiso. This proved very popular and had a very high success rate.

What our Clients had to say:

An excellent trip, and the support of the guides and Martin's culinary expertise made this an experience to remember! Thanks for the superb hospitality, food and accomodation.

Bill, Paul, Paul and Mark, July 2006

Other teams turned back but thanks to a huge dose of faith in our abilities by our guide (why I will never know), and a good deal of hauling me up, at some point our little team of three actually made it.

The world's best chocolate cake at the McNab Chalet

Melissa Butcher in the Sydney Morning Herald, Nov 2005

I would just like to say last week was great, hospitality & professionalism of your team was first class. At the end of the week no aches, no pains and no blisters. Cheers.

Alan Robinson, Preston, MBA 1, 18th June 2005

Overall a fantastic experience

Craig Crowther, MBA 1, 19th June 2004

McNab Chalet was faultless, excellent accommodation and better food than a restaurant.

Claire Smith, MBA 4, 10th July 04

Whole trip was well planned and the week itinerary was clearly explained along with options (if the weather wasn't good).

Mark Cunningham, MBA 1, 19th June 04

McNab were fantastic.

Graham Pay, MBA3 3rd July 2004

What a fantastic week that will remain with us for the rest of our lives! Thanks to Martin and Mel for looking after us at the chalet - Martin if you ever give up your day job - become a top chef (that lamb was incredible). Miles for sheer professionalism and ultra cool approach (even if he does cheat at cards!) and Matt who got Rich and I up Mont Blanc despite the "Umbungo joke".

The Green Family (Dad, Mike and Rich), 24th to 31st July 04

Can't say 'thanks' enough. Thanks to Keith, Melanie and Martin for unbelievable hospitality, kindness and friendship.

Thanks of course to our Guides...I'd certainly never have made it without the skills, encouragement and motivation you gave me.

Mike Griffiths, North Wales, Aug 03

Absolutely fantastic. The atmosphere at 'Chalet McNab' and Martin's cooking and hospitality combine to perfection with a brilliant mountaineering week.

Rob Moonie, Leeds, July 2001

Staying at Chalet McNab has been a real pleasure and I can't thank Martin enough for his friendship, hospitality and that cooking!

Dave Murrell, London, July 2001

Weather - GREAT
Views - GREAT
Climbs - GREAT
Martin's cooking - GREAT
Mile's training - GREAT
The view from the top of Mont Blanc - GREAT
A GREAT week for everything

Phil Hill, Berkshire, Berks, July 2001

Climbing Mont Blanc

Author: Melissa Butcher

Sydney Morning Herald, November 2005

There are those holidays when the brochure really can't capture the entire experience. For example, a stroll up Mont Blanc, western Europe's highest peak at 4807 metres, sounded quite nice on paper. After all, the brochure promised a 'wonderful mountain excursion', 'spectacular views' and beer on sunny mountain terraces.

I must have missed the bit about 150 metre vertical ladder descents onto glaciers. I don't recall anything about being dropped into a 40 metre crevasse either (or stepping into a couple of others over the course of the week). There was nothing about requiring the gymnastic ability to land one crampon point on a tiny crack in the rock, while holding rope and ice axe in either hand and ignoring a death defying drop into Switzerland. The weather warning doesn't really prepare you for Mont Blanc on a bad day. And there was absolutely zilch about the psychological trauma of realising that I am more Bridget Jones than Lara Croft.

A climb of Mont Blanc begins in Argentierre, a gorgeous village tucked away at the end of a valley in the French Alps where people still close shop at 12.30 for a long boozy lunch. Home for the week was the very comfortable McNab Chalet in the town, and alpine huts while on the trek which are positively luxurious by Australian standards. Helicopters bring in enough food for three course meals, and enough wine and beer for a well stocked bar. Stunning views over snow fields and peaks come standard, but ear plugs are de rigeur in the communal sleeping areas.

The puncturing of any self-delusions I had about my ability to climb mountains began in the days preceding our planned ascent. To increase the chances of reaching the summit, a few days of preparation and acclimatisation are needed, particularly for those of us who live in the world's flattest, driest continent. Let's face it, we're not used to stomping around in snow, scrambling up peaks or leaping over crevasses in a single bound, none of which seemed to bother my English climbing companions. Within a day I realised I was no longer an over-achiever but in the special education class. I gave my best rendition of a diva and gave up any hope of making it to the summit.

Luckily the guides made a fine art of ignoring many of my pleas that week like 'I can't go on, just leave me here to die'. With some patient coaching, scrambling did become less a display of unco-ordination although I suspect the real climbers in my group were inwardly dying at my less than elegant execution of what is after-all a very elegant sport. Personally I don't think there's anything wrong with a good bum slide, as long as you don't get your harness hooked on a rock so you're left hanging like limp lettuce.

The three days spent wandering over snow fields, and scrambling up smaller peaks for some spectacular views over the Alps, were a highlight of the adventure. For someone who had become uncomfortable with any sort of height, abseiling into a crevasse, albeit with a lot of handholding, was overcoming a fear I thought I'd have for life. Sure, they forgot to tell me how to get out of it resulting in a rather undignified hauling up but I wouldn't want to sound ungrateful.

Feeling less than confident the ascent of Mont Blanc itself took two days, with a gondola and train ride to help out. There's a gentle climb half way, and a scramble straight up to an overnight hut which sits precariously on a rocky outcrop at 3800 metres. From that point on everything gets faster and slows down at the same time. The half hour between 1.30 a.m. and departure at 2 a.m. is hectic with gear thrown on, backpacks prepared and breakfast eaten as quickly as possible. I hooked myself up between our guide, and my 6' 7" tail man praying he didn't fall down anything as there was no way my 5' 2" of nothing-like-muscle was going to be able to pull him out.

The climb began with a slow and steady plod up a heartbreaking dome of snow, after which there was a second where the going became even slower. There was little time to eat or drink as the weather closed in. The third rise was steeper and by then my stomach had had enough of the lack of food and oxygen and was about to throw up whatever was left. And just when I thought things couldn't get any worse the weather turned really ugly. Wind ripped across the 50 cm wide summit ridge. Sleet hammered us, axes and poles were coated in ice an inch thick, and we looked like Scott in the Antarctic with frozen hair and skin.

Other teams turned back but thanks to a huge dose of faith in our abilities by our guide (why I will never know), and a good deal of hauling me up, at some point our little team of three actually made it. I can't say I remember much - there was a white out, a gale, and a blizzard - my glasses iced over and I couldn't see a thing on the way down.

The record ascent of Mont Blanc, running from the valley floor to the top and back again, is about six hours. It took our team about 30, with a few hours sleep in the middle. We covered the final three kilometres to the summit at about 500 metres an hour. I'd heard Mont Blanc described earlier as a 'brute of a mountain' which I thought was a bit unkind at the time, but it's not a mountain to be taken lightly. Three climbers were killed the week after our party had ascended although they were attempting a far more technical route. Statistically only about one out of three who attempt it will make the summit, which makes the odds from our group - eight out of eleven - pretty good.

We made it back to the village, the last team, to a hot bath, champagne and the world's best chocolate cake at the McNab Chalet. Within a few days most of the bruising and swelling had disappeared, and what was left was a strange desire to do it again. They didn't mention in the brochure how peaceful it was when there's no-one else on the trail or when you're sitting up on a perch overlooking Europe; how good it felt to, eventually, let go, to have absolutely no control over anything and to put your trust in someone else; and how great it felt to remember what we're capable of. Not bad, Bridget Jones, not bad. Lara would be proud.

And if Mont Blanc sounds too much there is plenty of action down below: mountain biking, beautiful lower level walks, chairlifts for the more sedate, and cafes, pubs and restaurants in Argentierre and near by Chamonix for apre-anything.